Rut roh. Subaru torque converters are hard to remount. Dont know if they disturbed it. I am not sure exaclty what happens if it is not seated correctly and someone tries to drive it.

 

The leaks were fixed however after getting the car back the Check Engine light was on and AT Oil Temp light starts flashing every time I shift the car from Park.

Definitely not normal. Perhaps a connector wasn't replaced properly, or as nipper suggested, the torque converter was dislodged.

If the CEL was on when the car was picked up, did you point that out to the garage that did the work, either immediately or shortly thereafter.

If you've made the investment to repair the engine leaks I presume you want to keep the car for some time. In that case, I wouldn't disregard the warning lights and malfunctioning transmission.

Was the engine repair done at a Subaru dealer or Subaru specialist?

My suggestion is to get the car back as soon as possible. (Might even suggest having it flat-bedded if there's a significant distance involved.

 

it drives as if it were in D.

do you mean it starts in 1 and shifts up through the gears to 4 or is it ''struck'' in 4?? if stuck in 4 it is probably in ''limp'' mode. (in the 90s, really stuck in 3.)

the flashing AT Temp light means there is a electronic fault in the trans. read the trans codes, it will help.

is the trans oil pan dented?

check the largest wiring connector on the rear passenger side of the engine . check to see if ant pins are bent.

this is probably a wiring issue. check the dent in the trans pan.

 

I second that, if the botched the installation of the converter and or coupling of converter to trans you would have some serious mechanical issues when driving. I suspect that there is a sensor that is not hooked up, hence the CEL and that this sensor is important to the ECU determing shift points hence the shifting issue. First scan ECU for codes with reader and resolve. If that does not clear flashing AT temp light, there is a method I believe to check for AT codes shorting some pins or you can get the correct adaptor, a laptop and download FreeSSM. I would start with CEL though first.

 

I'm going to guess that when you go around a sharp turn in a dry parking lot (low speed, wheel turned completely left or right) you feel some binding, slowing down, hesitation, right? go try it.

the CHECK ENGINE light is on - go get the code. Advanced Auto, Autozone, and many other chains read the codes for free. tell us the exact code number like P0121 - not someone elses interpretation of what it means, we need the codes.

sounds to me like they installed the engine and the plugs aren't fully seated - and the trans needs some of those inputs -like TPS and isn't getting them so it's driving in LIMP mode. which will cause it to run in 3rd gear and "locked" 4WD - hence my initial response about parking lots and binding.

if the torque converter wasn't properly seated as folks have mentioned, the oil pump cracks and the trans doesn't really move much at all. maybe there's an "in between" failure but it would be a very odd thing - like they "partially" "incorrectly" seated it, then pulled the motor back out and started again - that's not likely, or let's hope not!

 

So, I did take the car back to the mechanic and the code that was given was P0748. He said there were no loose connections or anything like that.

 

I think it is driving in limp mode. It is not shifting gears.

 

The Mechanic suggested replacing the solenoid with a new one, do you think it needs to replaced or can it be a bad connection?

 

It never hurts to get a second opinion. Especially if the first opinion might have caused the problem.

 

I believe P0748 is for a short or open circuit between the TCM and the line pressure solenoid.

If so, then the fault could be in the solenoid itself, but equally if not more probable is a broken wire or bad connection in the wiring to the solenoid.

The circuit should be checked for continuity or breaks before replacing the solenoid, and for a start perhaps just try removing and reconnecting the connectors on the harnesses going to the transmission.

Also, as was mentioned, inspect the transmission pan for any dents that might have happened if the pan was used to support the transmission with the engine out. This could be crimping on a wire inside, or could damage the valve body inside.

 

Thanks to everyone who has responded.
I've informed the mechanic of all these suggestions but he can't seem to find the problem.

I am going to do as Novablue suggests and get a second opinion.

I am hoping that it is just a bad wire or loose wire somewhere because everything was working fine before getting the oil leaks repaired.

 

Got my car back this morning! It was in fact the PCS that was not working. My forester shifts like new! =)

Thanks for all of your help!

 

Pcs?

 

pressure control solenoid

 

What did they need to do to replace it?

 

Hmmm, I'm not sure if the part is accessible without removing anything. I'll ask what had to be done and get back to you.

 

in front of the dip stick for tranny,there is a speed sensor,check wire connection,if that dont help take sensor out and clean it,put it back and try that